The Municipality of Mandamados
The village of Mandamados is a mountainous area. As far as population is concerned, it is the biggest village to the northeast island, nowadays and during the Turkish rule as well. Today, the villages of Mandamados, Kapi, Clio and Pelopi compose the Municipality of Mandamados.
The village of Mandamados is directly related with the holly worship of the Archangel Michael. The whole representation of the Archangel Michael is a relief. According to the tradition, after a violent attack that either the Agaren or the Saracen pirates made to the monastery, the only monk that survived the slaughter hidden in the roof of the holly church, moulded with soil and blood from the other slaughtered monks the relief representation of the Archangel Michael sitting on a rock. The fact that a big number of villages, including the village Mandamados, are hidden among the hills away from the sea is due to the pirates' frequent raids during Middle Age. The inhabitants of many seaside villages had to leave their homes and their activities, such as the fishing, the cattle raising and the pottery for the sake of their families' and their lives' safety. For the same reasons the inhabitants of the village of Mandamados had to leave the marvelous seashores, where their villages were built. They all gathered together around the famous, even since then, and holly shrine of Taxiarhes at the area "Paliou A' Stratgous (Paleos Archistratigos)", meaning "Old Commander In Chief". At this area we will find ruins of the first chapel. Since then, Archangel Michael is considered as the protector and patron saint of the village of Mandamados and of the whole island during the Turkish rule.
the old Madamados
During this period many people declare having seen his vision. Among these appearances, we include the vision that many inhabitants of the island had on the 8th of November in 1912, the date of the liberation of the island from the Turkish yoke. In this vision the Archangel was a horse rider and was leading the Greek army against the enemy. According to another testimony that comes from the monastery' s only nun until nowadays, who has been hearing the heavy steps of his iron shoes, the Archangel has been walking anxious up and down the church vestibule during the hard days of the Turkish rule. His fame had been expanded out of the island' s borders, even to the other side of Aegean, to Minor Asia, where it is said that the Archangel had been deeply respected by the Turkish. The Bey (Governor) of Ayvalic, had been sending every year an ox to be sacrificed in honour of the Archangel. A traditional meal had being prepared, made of wheat and the ox, called "kiskek". This activity has been maintained until nowadays. Before the ox gets sacrificed, the priest reads a prayer (!) after the vespers of Saturday. We should not forget to mention that the first olive press of the community, called " I Michani t' agiou" (meaning The Saint' s Engine), has been built with the participation of the whole village, in 1909. This initiative was a great and rare operation for those days, where the economical and political power was gathered in the hands of the notables. Many villages on the island imitated the example of Mandamados. Today, this olive press is the cultural centre of the village. Since then, the name of the olive press has remained the same. It should be this way, because during the Turkish rule the church, to whom, fortunately, enough privileges had been granted by law (tanzimat) by the Turkish, should survey any innovating effort. The privileges given to the Greek Church were the beginning of the economical turkish subjection.
To the northeast side of the island, 300 metres above the sea, at the foot of the east side of the mountain Lepetymnos is lying the village of Kapi. It is about 40 kilometres from the island' s capital. It is extended from the north to the south and has a wonderful view over the opposite eastern Tourist coasts. Two churches decorate the village. The first is the church of St Georgios and is situated to the north part of the village. The second one is dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary and is situated to the south part of the village. A small chapel dedicated to St Paraskevi is situated at the village's central square, under the shade of an old plane tree. Most of the inhabitants' incomes come from the cultivation of the olive tree and the cattle raising. At the same time they cultivate their gardens, their "orchards" that are extended along the east side of the village. During the decade of Sixties, because of the actual life' s conditions, many inhabitants immigrated. Today, though, the village maintains its population stable. The village has a great tradition in music. There were and there still are many musicians. A few years ago, there were bands of copper wind instruments, called "fyssera" (meaning blowers), that today because of the modern times' demands have been replaced by modern instruments. Ever since old times, the traditional band has been amusing the inhabitants of the village, whenever there was a family celebration or during the religious festivals but also on Sundays at the central square of the village. There are many young people in this village. To earn their living, apart from the cultivation of the fields, they exercise various professions, such as builders, painters and carpenters, maintaining this way the tradition of the village in those professions. The women of the village prepare traditional sweets and marzipans as well as a great number of embroideries.
The temple of St Georgios
Today, the visitor has the possibility to admire many small old and new forests that extend above the village, close to the primary school and the church of St Georgios. The visitor has also the possibility to admire the mansion of "Boliouri" that is about to be restored and transformed into a cultural centre. In the old market place, we will find the buildings "casino", an old cafe and the shop of Psarros. Those two buildings are characteristic examples of the stone architecture of Kapi, including also the Mansion "Despotiko", the house of the bishop Sophronio, who comes from this village. About 5 kilometres from the village there is the village' s summer resort, called "Yeni Limani" (meaning New Port). It is an old, small fishermen' s town with a customhouse and a remarkable commercial life. Nowadays, it still is a picturesque summer resort with country-houses under the shade of a plane tree. The visitor can also visit the wonderful beach of "Ferogia".
The village of Pelopi consisted, in the past, of 17 villages dispersed in the same area because of the pirates' raids, which had been giving them a hard time. But, as soon as the inhabitants found an appropriate and forested area, close to the river Tsiknia, they abandoned those small villages and built there their houses. They gave to this area the name "Gelia" (meaning laughter), as they had got rid of the pirates and their life was full of joy and laughter. According to another version, it is said that, at the beginning, the village was built in a place bathed by the sun and it was called "Ielia" (ancient word). When the inhabitants moved to the village' s present place, the name changed into "Gelia". The village took its actual name after the Second World War. It was named Pelopi because it is said that, in the past, a king, called Pelopas, visited the village.
The village of Clio, named after the ancient muse "Clio", from an altitude of 350 metres has a view over the beach and its origins as in the surroundings of the village there are ruins of ancient towns. A recent research has revealed an ancient town of the early Copper Era that dates back to 3200 a. C, situated at the area called Paliocastro. At this area it is believed that there was a statue representing the Muse. It was taken by the pirates but we don't know when. There was found accidentally at/in Heraklio (ancient town) of Italy a fresco representing the Muse, protector of the History and the Rhetoric. The natives of the ancient towns, we mentioned above, during the dark years of the Middle Age and before the conquest made by the Turkish in 1453, had to move at the place, where Clio is situated today, because of the pirates. They wanted to survey the sea in order to prevent the dangerous and bloody raids. The first buildings were extended from the position "Platanos" to the position "Hamam" and there were not visible from the sea.
Throughout history, the village was extended and developed enough, since the danger of the pirates did not exist anymore. If we take the road up the hill we get out of the village, there, where the church of the St Trinity is. This church is a preservable monument, as it is a three aisle Basilica having at each aisle a cross-shaped dome, a nice wooden sculptured reredos and a plain decoration consisting of chandeliers and old sacred lamps. The church that was at its place had been constructed in 1793 but it had been destroyed later from an earthquake. It was rebuilt on the 14th of July in 1839. Its belfry, which dates back to 1914, is made of a pink stone, called Trahitis with nice relief capitals. As we leave the village behind us and we begin to go downhill through a spiral road, we enter the evergreen olive grooves that belong to the surroundings of Clio.
Skala Skamnias
Sikaminea Known from the famous greek author Strati Mirivili, Sikaminea is at the north-east part of the island, 48 kilometers from the city of Mytilene. Three kilometers north to the village, there is a smaller village called Skala Sikamineas. This village is known because of its small chapel, Panagia Gorgona(Mermaid), which took its name from the wall painting that there is inside of it.Skala Skamnias is famous about its location since its picturesque sunset attracts the tourists to join the wonderful view with the unique traditional tastes.
Traditional village with many taverns (fresh fish and sea food),
Sunset at Skala Skamnias
Tradition
Apart from the olive production and the cattle raising, another important element that contributes to the economical and cultural tradition of the Municipality of Mandamados is the pottery that passes from generation to generation and blossoms until nowadays, only that her primitive appearance is progressively disappearing. Today, will find at the area of Agios Stefanos the only group of ceramists left in the Northeast Aegean. This group consists of three persons working the clay the traditional way and producing Mandamados' traditional jug. They have to deal with numerous difficulties in order to maintain the tradition alive. Fortunately, in the village there are many ceramists who started working the traditional way and who have adjusted their art to the demands of the pottery' s modern technique.
The Religious Festival of St Haralambos takes place at the end of June, on the mountain Tavros. The day before the festival, horse riders, on their decorated horses, start from the school' s square heading towards the distant and uphill Tavro. The inhabitants of Mandamados celebrate this festival together with the inhabitants of Agia Paraskevi. So, the day before the festival they gather together and sacrifice the oxes in order to prepare the festival' s traditional food, called "kiskek". During the night, they dance and eat together, roasting the sacrificed animals. The mess takes place on Sunday morning, at the chapel of St Haralambos. In the afternoon, horse races take place at the area called "Linohoma", close to Mandamados. The winner takes as a price either a wreath or a handkerchief. In the past the amusement with the horses was going on until Sunday night, in the cafes of the village.
The Religious Festival of the Myrofores (the women, who looked after Jesus Christ, after they got him down from the cross). This festival takes place 15 days after Easter, the day of the Church' s inauguration, which was built in 1888 with the participation of the whole village. The Religious Festival of St Ioannis. This festival takes place on the 29th of August and its celebration lasts two days with amusement and musical tradition (revival of the old custom).
The Festival of "Agiou Potamiou" (of the St River), As the inhabitants of Mandamados love the amusement and the festivals, they invented another festival with which they seal the end of the summer. It is called the Festival of "Agiou Potamiou" and today it is celebrated at the end of August, while in the past, it was celebrated at the end of September, before the inhabitants of the village leave the summer resort and return to the village. In the surroundings of Mandamados there is the river of Pedi, which is the biggest and which during the winter joins the sea; as a result, a great number of various fishes enter in the river and grow there. During this festival, the inhabitants prepare their harpoons at the point of which they attach a trap of a substance that stuns the fishes and makes them an easy prey and a tasteful delicacy to the fishermen and to the inhabitants. Although this is a barbarous and lousy custom, the law and the police did not manage to prohibit it.
The church of the Blessed Virgin Mary is another ornament of the village because of its stone construction and its majestic entrance, made of carved stone. Every year, on the 15th of August, the Religious Festival of the Blessed Virgin Mary takes place, followed by the preparation of "kiskek", the traditional meal. After the mess all the inhabitants eat together the "kiskek", while the traditional band accompanies their feast. In the night, they all go to the village' s square in order to dance and to sing all together, accompanied by the local traditional dance groups. In the surroundings of the village there are many chapels that the inhabitants visit from time to time.
The celebration of this religious festival is accompanied by musical activities in the cafes, during the evening.
The religious festival of St Kiryka takes place on the 15th of July, at the cape of Korakas, a wonderful rural area. The evening before the celebration there is a vespers that takes place, followed by the preparation of the traditional meal, "kiskek". The horse riders with their decorated horses spend all the night there drinking ouzo. The mess and the distribution of the traditional meal take place in the morning. The celebration is continued at the seaside summer resort, Tsonia. On the beach there are two or three cafes, where an equal number of bands play music in each cafe. Horse races are organized in the evening, starting from Mandamados until the village of Clio and using a special earthen street for this purpose. The winner takes as a price a cup, a wreath and an amount of money. The celebration is continued at the cafes of Clio (revival of the old custom).
The chapel of St Sotira is situated on the picturesque beach of Tsonia. The traditional bands and the local traditional dance groups are a part of this celebration too.
Cultural Associations and Organisms
The Polykentro
A remarkable cultural happening that we should mention is the Lesbian Exhibition of Ceramics. This exhibition that has become an institution, takes place every year, since 1996, at the permanent exhibition hall, available at the cultural centre of Mandamados, called " I Michani t' Agiou" (meaning The Saint' s Engine). It is a cultural event supported by the Prefecture of Lesbos, the Ministry of Aegean and the Ministry of Culture, the Foundation of the family G. Psaropoulos ("Study Centre of Latest Ceramics") and by the efforts of the community' s former vice-president and present Mayor, M. Karatzitzi. This exhibition lasts during all the month of August. The visitor has the possibility not only to admire various pottery products, the products that are made according to the rules of the early pottery era, but also to learn a lot of things on the history and the development of this art throughout the centuries. Ceramists from all over the county of Lesbos participate to this exhibition. We should not forget that pottery and olive oil production have been following a common path throughout the centuries. The visitor has the possibility to admire their common history at the yard of the cultural centre, where the Cheese Festival takes also place, during the first ten days of August.
Natural beauty
Many foreigner travellers admire the area between the position Karava and the position Palios, including the beautiful four small islands of "Tokmakia" and "Aspronisia", which are not inhabited. Many writers from Mandamados, such as Stavrakis Anagnostou, a teacher of the last century, Michalis Stefanides, a university professor have also said and written the best things about this very beautiful and unknown area of the island. The american professor of the University of Toronto, Hugh J. Mason, has also written in one of his works that the story of the book "Daphnis and Chloe" written by Longos, took place in this area.
Sightseeing
The interior of the church
At the church of Taxiarhes Mandamadou, the visitor has the possibility to admire the interior of the church, the yard surrounded by the byzantine cells, where he will be given hospitality. He will also walk around and enjoy the surroundings of the church, which is situated in an idyllic position.
Archangel Michael
The Church of St Georgios was first built in 1757 and was rebuilt after the earthquake of 1867. It is until today well maintained and enchants the visitor with the wooden sculptured reredos and the interior decoration of wonderful and very beautiful columns' capitals. In the church there is an old icon representing St. Efstratios. It was brought to the church by some countrymen, who immigrated from Russia. On the front view of the church there is an inscription of our distinguished fellow-villager Galinou Ioannide.
In a distance of about 200 metres from the group of the ceramists of the area of Agios Stephanos, we will find the humble and plain Chapel of St Stephanos (the eldest on the island), among the quiet olive groove. The archaeologists situate the Chapel' s construction in 1100 p. C. It is said that it was the area' s Parochial Church, at the position Troupia (Tropea, meaning trophy) in the surroundings of the ceramists' encampment. It represents the inhabitants' victory against the pirates.
The Chapel of Panagia Gorgona
The Chapel of Panagia Gorgona is built by the sea and is located at the area of Skala Skamnias.Sikaminea Known from the famous greek author Strati Mirivili, is at the north-east part of the island, 48 kilometers from the city of Mytilene.The chapel is quite famous to the local and to the foreign people also.The chapel took its name from the wall painting that there is inside of it and depicts the Virgin Mary as a mermaid.
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Associations - Local products
Before the visitor leaves the village, he should not forget to buy the famous dairy products from the three private cheese dairies as well as the association' s cheese dairy, close to the Church of Taxiarhes. It is worth the pain visiting it because we will have the chance to follow the production' s procedure of various dairy products (such as the cheese stored in olive oil, the butter and the white cheese) from the association' s modern installations.
The shops-studios of the ceramists are dispersed throughout the village. The visitor has the possibility to choose among a great variety of ceramics. During his trip, the visitor has the possibility to approach the encampment of the ceramists at the position Troupia from the new road that starts from the crossroad Pedi and leads to the area of Agios Stephanos. He will have the chance to admire there, the remarkable furnaces-studios and the old cylindrical furnaces, where the famous, for the fresh water that they serve, jugs of Mandamados are baked.
Useful Information
Town Hall: 61203
Pammegisti Taxiarches at Madamados: 61214
Madamados Poykentro - Pottery: 61203
Peripheral M.C. Madamadou: 61217
Peripheral M.C. Kappis: 93622
